This page shows how to use the pre-punched chassis that comes with the Time
saver version of the WF-55.
If you bought the Basic version, you will have your own chassis (instead of
the pre-punched chassis shown above). You will need to prepare it as you go. Use these pictures as a general guide.
The power transformer mounts through the large rectangular cut-out
that's surrounded by four M4 screw holes. To
fit it, undo the four nuts and remove the fixing hardware from the underside: one steel
locking washer, one plain steel washer and then the red fibre washer. Mount the transformer on the chassis'
top surface, sliding the solder lugs through the rectangular hole and replace all of the fixing hardware in the same order. So the red fibre washer will
sit on the chassis, then the plain steel washer fits on top of that, then the steel locking washer and
finally the nut. Tighten the four nuts fully.
The power transformer can go either way around, but it's probably best to have the
mains-related solder lugs (0-120 and 0-120) closer to the side of the chassis. This makes
for slightly neater cable runs.
The output transformer runs across the chassis, behind the power transformer. To mount the output
transformer, there are two 4mm holes; use M4 screws, shakeproof washers and nuts, and make
sure that this transformer's lugs face towards the power transformer, as shown in the photo
(right). Then fit a
rubber grommet to the 10mm hole just to the side of the output transformer.
The pre-punched chassis has two sockets. Add the 9-pin valve socket to the position close to the front
panel, using the two M2.5 screws and nuts with M3 shakeproof washers to secure the base of the valve shield.
The octal socket mounts in the larger hole. The socket and mounting ring go on the
inside of the chassis, and the retaining clip goes on the outside of the chassis (see below). Use M3 hardware to mount
this socket - it can be a bit fiddly to align the mounting ring and retainer but persevere! :)
Front and rear panel
Before adding any of the front or rear panel components, decide what you want to do with your front panel (see Front and rear
panels, right). Once you've finished your front panel, mount it with the input jack socket, Volume
pot and neon indicator. Then add the power switch, mains socket and speaker jack socket on the back
panel. When aligning the controls make sure you'll be able to get to the lugs for soldering
The pot is a general purpose type, and there are a couple of
adjustments to make. First, bend back the small forward-projecting tab so that
the pot can sit flush against the chassis. Then trim the soft nylon shaft of the
Volume pot - use a Dremel-type
tool or junior hacksaw to cut it down to about 8-10mm. Now, fit the chickenhead knob; rotating it so that
when the pot is set fully -clockwise, the pointer is at about 5-o'clock. Fix it by tightening the
For the On/Off switch, align it so that the 'On' label on the switchplate is uppermost.
And for the combined IEC/fuseholder, make sure the Earth lug is uppermost. Insert the 500mA fuse into the
holder in the fuse tray and slide it into place (you'll feel it click into the socket's internal fuse
Solder lugs for grounding
Both grounding lugs are secured with M4 screw, shakeproof washer and nut. The first is close to the mains
socket, and the second is close to the rubber grommet you've already added.
For each solder lug, bend them so that the 'arm' is pointing upwards - you'll use
this to solder when you add the wiring.
|Front and rear panels|
The Time saver kit comes with a plain mahogany front panel. Before mounting it (with the
input socket, Volume control and neon indicator) you need to decide what sort of
look you want, and how you want to finish it. You have a huge range of options.
At the simplest, your local DIY shop has simple oil-based finishes, such as Danish oil and Tung oil.
If you're feeling more adventurous, you can use one of the many finishes that
guitar makers use, such as Gibson cherry red. The example here uses a subtle red
dye shading and Danish oil.
For the chassis' back panel, your kit comes with a legend sticker that fits between the
mains socket and speaker socket. It shows the rear panel layout with space to write in the mains
voltage, fuse rating (0.5A for the WF-55) and your chosen speaker impedance.
The PT mounts through the large rectangular hole on the chassis
Use M4 hardware to secure the output transformer, and add the rubber grommet for its wires
Mount the 9-pin valve socket using the shield base and M2.5 hardware
Orientate the On/Off switch and the combined fuseholder and mains input socket as shown here
The solder lugs are used for grounding, bend them so that they are accessible for soldering